Colorado: Estes Park, Rocky Mountain Highs. I remember the day we first met. It had just finished raining, and the clouds were breaking up as they crawled across the Mummy Range of Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado. Her dark brown hair reflected the morning light giving it polished, copper-like appearance. I walked slowly up to her, not knowing what to say. I let out feeble “good morning” like a first grader greeting his teacher for the first time. Admittedly, I was intimidated by her looks, her size. Her name was Mary. She was pushing seven feet tall, had four legs, wore a saddle, and she was to be my companion for the next two hours.

My nine-year old son Adam and I had booked a breakfast trail ride with the folks at Sombrero ranch, just outside of Rocky Mountain National Park. It was one of many father / son adventures we had planned during a five night trip to this well-known park. So, here we were, standing ankle deep in mustard-colored mud while wranglers with cowboy names like Quentin, A.J. and Arturo played matchmakers sizing up seasoned horses with freshly scrubbed city slickers. As I mounted my trusty steed, A.J. asked about my experience with horses. I flat out lied and told him I was a good rider. I also failed to mention that the breed to which I was accustomed had poles through their backs, migrated in tight circles, and was indigenous to shopping malls and amusement parks. He proceeded to give me steering instructions, but I was distracted by the toothpick that danced up and down on his bottom lipped as he talked. “If you wanna go right, you need to pull to the left, right?” AJ said in western twang. “Right,” I said.

It wasn’t long before we were on the trail. After a few minutes, I had a greater appreciation for the people who blazed a trail west to this breathtaking part of the country. The first settler to the area was Joel Estes for whom the town Estes Park is named. Estes Park is the touristy town which sits on the eastern shoulders of the park. Joel, a Kentuckian, was kind of wanderer who embarked on a series of journeys to the west. In 1859, he brought his family to Colorado as a part of the 1859 gold rush and eventually settled here as a farmer. Others later followed, including F.O. Stanley of Stanley Steamer fame who relocated here because of his health and later opened up a hotel in 1909. The Stanley Hotel, reputed to be haunted, was the inspiration for the Steven King thriller, The Shining. Redrum, anyone?

As our horses clopped their way over rocks the size of bread loaves, you could see the outskirts of Estes Park in distance. The town is not that large; around 5,200 people call it home, and you’d be hard pressed to find a building over four stories tall. It rests in an idyllic valley some 7,522 feet above sea level, and they make it a point to tell you on signs and in literature. That’s one of the odd things about Colorado. Whenever you enter a city limits out there -- whether it be Fort Collins, Denver, Loveland, or Boulder -- the signs that welcome you invariably boasts the altitude rather than something like population. People tend to come and go, but Estes Park has, and will always be, 7,522 feet above sea level.

The altitude of Estes Park is mere blip compared to the mountains that soar in its back yard. Rocky Mountain National Park’s landscape is one of the steepest in the United States. One of the best ways to enjoy the park is to take a scenic, and at times, white-knuckling drive on Trail Ridge Road. When my son and I drove the 48 miles from Estes Park on the east side over to Grand Lake on the west, the day started off cold, cloudy and drizzly. We drove towards mountains we couldn’t see in a rented Jeep Liberty I didn’t trust. Luckily, we encountered clear skies as we climbed, while the massive flotilla of clouds was still docked over the valleys of Estes Park.

Around every turn, there were jaw-dropping views which caused my son to say repeatedly “oh my gosh” and made me want to break out in a chorus of America the Beautiful. It’s no surprise that it was a trip to the mountains of Colorado that inspired Katherine Lee Bates to pen the words to this patriotic song over a hundred years ago.

Driving up Trail Ridge Road is a true test of bravery. There are no guard rails to protect you from tumbling endlessly into Kansas should you blow a tire and careen over a precipice. I often found myself straddling the center line until another car approached and then, and only then, did I reluctantly inch the Jeep Liberty to one side. I began to worry. Wasn’t there a recent recall on the steering systems of Jeep Liberties? Did the rental company take care of that already? Can a car really tumble all the way to Kansas? Another one of my son’s “Ooooo, Dad. Oh my gosh” brought me back to the task hand: continuing our accent safely.

Eleven miles of Trail Ridge Road is above the tree line which means the climate is too harsh to support anything other than grasses, non-flowering lichens and cushion plants which the National Park Service describes as looking like “ground-hugging clumps of moss.” I guess they call it as they see it. The road climbs to a height of 12,183 feet or roughly two miles above sea level. Not too far from the Park’s Alpine Visitor Center there are a couple of short hikes that will leave most people breathless and some a little queasy due to altitude sickness. My son and I felt fine except for a little extra huffing and puffing. Here’s why: At 12,000 feet there are roughly 40% fewer oxygen molecules per breath because the barometric pressure drops the higher you go. Subsequently, you have to breathe harder to oxygenate your body. You can tell the air is thinner. Breathing it gives you a sensation similar to that of taking a deep breath after sucking down wintergreen Life Savers. Cool, refreshing and cleansing but without the risk of cavities.

When we were up there, the mountains sported a dandruff of snow. Mind you, this was August. It was in the low 30s, there was no wind and it was eerily quiet. All I could hear was the blood rushing through my head. It’s sad we’ve become so accustomed to sounds – traffic, radios, background chatter --- that complete silence is at first disturbing, mildly painful. I turned to Adam and noticed that he was cocking his head in hopes of hearing something, anything. The silence was broken by the sound of gravel crunching beneath our shoes as we walk back to the car. We were reluctant to speak for fear our voices would disrupt the calm even more.

Spending time in the mountains changes your perspective on things; although the view for most of trail ride was the back side of my son’s horse who obviously suffered a gastrointestinal disorder. I knew then that the cowboy life was not for me. However, on mountain tops you feel as if you’re standing on a large, unmoving vessel that doesn’t consume fuel but creates energy. Energy to explore, connect, and try new things like elk jerky.

Mountains have the power to transform flatlanders like me and my son into climbers and peak baggers. They made us put down calendars and pick up walking sticks. They infused our souls with a drug that makes us want to return sooner rather than later. They created memories which will last a life time, and they brought a son closer to his father, a father closer to his son. Each day was a high for different reasons. Thank goodness for the power of the Rockies.

Details

Estes Park is located 90 minutes from Denver International Airport and downtown Denver. There are no mountain passes to cross and the highways serving the area are easy to navigate. Between Memorial Day and early to mid-October, Estes Park also is accessible from the west by way of Trail Ridge Road (U.S. Highway 34) from Granby and Grand Lake.

Our Sleeping Place: The Silver Moon Inn is a AAA 3-Diamond property located between "Tregent Park" or "Waterwheel Park" and the new "Performance Park" on the river walk. Just a short stroll over the footbridge and past the waterwheel leads you into the heart of Estes Park. Rocky Mountain National Park is only two miles to the west. It is right on the Fall River. A room complete with refrigerator, microwave, and VCR costs about $100 a night in late August. Bonus point: Gas grills are set next to the river for use by the guests. 175 Spruce Drive Estes Park, CO 80517. 1(970) 586–6006, 1-800-818-6006 or www.silvermooninn.com

Rocky Mountain National Park: The park covers over 415 square miles of which 90% is wilderness. There are 355 miles of hiking trails ranging from flat lakeside strolls to steep mountain peak climbs. Need to know: Two centers near Estes Park are open year round. Beaver Meadows is located on U.S. Route 36, 3 miles from the town. Activities at the center include: watch a 20-minute film on the park; checkout the topographical relief map; speak with a park ranger; browse the bookstore or reserve backcountry camping sites. Fall River is On U.S. Route 34, 5 miles west of Estes Park. Activities include: learn about wildlife from displays; speak to a park ranger; browse the bookstore; enjoy the "Discover Rocky” special hands-on exhibit. An entrance fee of $20 is charged for passenger cars and it’s good for seven days. Pedestrians, bicycles and motor cycles are charged $10. Not surprising each visitor center offers the Junior Ranger Program. Just stop at one of the visitor centers to pick up a book with park activities. Rocky Mountain National Park. 1000 Highway 36 Estes Park, CO 80517-8397. Visitor information (970)586-1206, recorded message (970) 586-1333 or www.nps.gov/romo

Looking for horses with saddles? There are two stables located within the park: Glacier Creek Stables (Glacier Creek (970) 586-3244) and Moraine Park Stables (Moraine Park (970) 586-2327) Hi Country Stables or www.colorado-horses.com/hicountrystables

Where to ride in the winter? There are two Estes Park stables open in the winter:

Sombrero Stables Sombrero Ranch, Inc. 3300 Airport Road Boulder, CO 80301
Estes Park Stable - (970) 586-4577 or www.sombrero.com

Aspen Lodge Stables. Aspen Lodge 6120 Highway 7 Estes Park, CO 80517
(970) 586-8133 or www.aspenlodge.net

Advice: Altitude sickness sometime just happens. Even very fit individuals coming from lower elevations may experience altitude problems. Symptoms include headaches, shortness of breath, insomnia and rapid heartbeat. After a few days your body will have made some physiological adjustments to higher elevations, but full acclimation may take weeks. To minimize symptoms drink plenty of fluids, avoid alcohol, don't skip meals and get plenty of rest.

Feature provided to FamilyTravelFiles.com by Greg Ward, dad and one day mountain horseman. Copyright 2009.