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Florida: Sebastian, Pelican Island Is for the Birds and Families Too. As we glided for a few minutes surveying the grasses in the shallow water framing the first island, a breeze provided needed comfort. It was difficult to see the difference between the mangrove islands that are anchored within the lagoon. They all have pelicans.

Pelican Island is for the birds. For those who wish to visit the Lilliputian island that is recognized as the first location in the National Wildlife Refuge System, it must be done by water and at a distance. The tiny mangrove habitat is similar to its sister islands within the Indian River Lagoon. Unremarkable to view, yet most remarkable because of its history. Within the land area that surrounds the island almost everyone we met, visitor or native resident, had a piece of information to share about Pelican Island and Paul Kroegel’s part in saving the island and changing how Americans value wild spaces.

While the Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge is known by the tiny mangrove island within its boundaries the real story is about the complex yet fragile surrounding area that is also part of the refuge. It is an estuary ecosystem that supports hundreds of species of birds, plants and mammals, including 15 threatened or endangered species. In addition to being a safe haven for birds, with two wood stork rookeries, the lagoon also nurtures juvenile sea turtles and sea horses. The dry land wooded habitat provides space for bobcats, raccoons, possum and squirrels.

On the surface at least, it seems like paradise. As we paddled in the direction of the island I could see fish of all sizes darting among the grasses and racing across open patches on the bottom. Our experience kayaking in the lagoon was perfect from the start. Our group spanned ages seven to 77 and from novice to master kayaker. Everyone was out for fun and as a bonus to see Pelican Island. Sarah, a ten-year-old in a bright yellow kayak squealed as a small but active fish jumped for a bug in flight. In the main part of the channel bottlenose dolphins seemed to be on a parade route, three surfaced, then two on the same loop, then three surfaced in a rhythmic line. Their movement was as effortless as ours was not but we were making progress and having fun on the way to Pelican Island.

The brown pelican with its island namesake symbolizes a natural connection between birds and the tourists. They soar above the beaches and over the sea grasses, their shadows forming prehistoric shapes not unlike pterodactyls. Their actions demand watching as they swoop and glide with the sea air currents. I think they are far more mysterious and interesting to watch than sea gulls that have no pride. As we paddled in a haphazard formation about a dozen brown pelicans passed overhead as if on estuary patrol. One lonely straggler, flying not quite in formation, seemed slightly interested in our presence. The others kept their beaks pointed south.

To canoe or not to canoe, that is the quesiton? In addition to a guided canoe or kayak outing, there are several tour boats that also provide a guided cruise that includes the waters surrounding Pelican Island and the Indian River Estuary.
On the day we launched, our guide provided a scripted dialog. “Brown pelicans have few natural enemies, “ he began as the hum of the motor decreased. “They nest in trees, bushes and on mounds on the ground. Sometimes nests are destroyed by wind and rain, flooding or fires.” A pause as he surveyed the passengers and then asked, “ What is the biggest threat to brown pelicans?” A young boy, not more than nine years of age, waved his hand to answer. With a nod from the guide he blurted out, “Man, I mean people, right?”

“That’s correct,” our guide continued. “Today it is commercial development but in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, pelicans were hunted for their feathers. After World War I when there was a severe food shortage, fishermen killed pelicans for stealing their fish while still others stole the eggs for food. Then the use of a popular pesticide called DDT was used on farms in this area. The poison filtered into the habitat and caused the birds to lay eggs with shells so thin that they broke during incubation.” This sobering information caused many to look to the horizon and away from the speaker. The day was beautiful.; the sun warm, and the water reflected clusters of shimmering aqua jewels. In the distance the tiny islands that dot this coastal waterway seemed pristine. Trouble in paradise?

Learning to gether was effortless. The questions continued primarily from the youngest of passengers. By coincidence both of the families with the questioning kids had spent time at the Environmental Learning Center. The Benders family from Chicago gave me instant feedback. “Do not miss the place. It oozes with fun ways to learn. The dry lab is amazing and everything can be touched. There is even a corner play area for toddlers,” Sally Benders nodded as her toddler moved to sit with Nona.

“The EcoVentures are the very best,” her husband added. “We want to live there, right off the boardwalk. Then we could canoe every Saturday. Have you been over to the elementary school? You know, to the nature trail. Our kids loved it. It is great for them to see something important done by other kids. That’s the neat thing about this area. Everyone seems to care about taking care of nature.”

Falling in love with a pelican. And so as the cruise continued the kids wanted to know more about pelicans. As if following a script an older man with a Brooklyn accent recited the limerick by Dixon Lanier Merritt "A wonderful bird is the pelican, his bill can hold more than his belly can ...  " The kids laughed and our guide continued to answer questions from his attentive stewards.

I listened as he confirmed that the pouch attached to the lower half of the pelican's bill could hold up to three times more than its stomach. The pouch and dipnet holds the catch of fish until the water that surrounds the fish is squeezed out. Then the pelican swallows and carries the fish in its esophagus. When there are baby pelicans the pouch is also the lunch wagon.

Not a glamorous bird but I think likeable. Brown pelicans weigh about 8 to 10 pounds and have a wingspan of more than six feet when mature. Sound impressive? Not to other pelicans. Brown pelicans are the smallest of the seven pelican species. They may be small and not very glamorous in the bird community but they are clever survivors of the air and sea. Soaring in squadron style along the coast they look like recent auditioners for Disney’s Dinotopia.

As our cruise returned to the dock I asked the Benders, “Are things better now?” Steve Benders replied, “In some ways yes, because in the almost 100 years since Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge was born, we have all learned more about how everything is connected. Our kids know much more than we did about protecting and respecting. This community is a good example of how small things make a big difference.” As we enjoyed the last few minutes of our return cruise another pelican patrol chased the sea breeze heading south over paradise.

Indian River is unhurried and family friendly. The area surrounding Pelican Island and Indian River Lagoon is ideal for a family vacation. Unhurried and friendly the community atmosphere is welcoming. It provides all of the necessary components for down time and rejuvenation, fun and learning and according to the Benders family inspiration. Nearly effortless most activities are only minutes from a family-friendly sleeping place. The eating options are varied and the menu of things to do both day and night is extensive.

Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge now has a viewing location on the eastern side of Indian River. The viewing platform is located just of the Jungle Trail, an impressive boardwalk ramps above the prairie grasses, over the mangroves and ends above the trees providing an unobstructed view of Pelican Island. Bonus points: On most of the planks you will see the name of a NWF and its founding year etched. It is fun to locate your own birth year and have your children do the same. 

Make plans to have fun. In addition to Pelican Island NWF the area also has world-class beaches, easy flowing estuaries, woodland pathways, moonlight paddles, turtle quests, surfing, kayaking and golden artifacts from sunken Spanish galleons, the area also has plenty of unique shopping places, entertaining theatre and awesome art. The communities within Indian River County include Vero Beach, Fort Pierce, and Sebastian. We have made a list of the fun stuff to make your own family vacation memories. There are still more discoveries to be made. For these, and the many other treasured experiences in Indian River County, please call (772) 567-3491, ext.110 or go to www.indianriverchamber.com

Family Vacaiton Planning Details

Environmental Learning Center. They are nested at 255 Live Oak Drive, Vero Beach, 32963. (561) 589-5050 or www.elcweb.org

Kayaks Etc. They are open year-round and do scheduled and private excursions almost daily. Children and adults of all ages are welcome. We have taken out as young as 6 months and as old as 90. 2626 US Hwy 1, Vero Beach, 32960. Go to www.kayaksetc.com

Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge. U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. 1339 20th Street, Vero Beach, 32960-3559. 1(772) 562-3909 ext.173 or http://pelicanisland.fws.gov

The Pelican Island Preservation Society. Box 1903, Sebastian, Florida 32978-1903. (772) 663-9750 or www.nbbd.com/npr/pips

Archie Carr National Wildlife Refuge. U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. 1339 20th Street, Vero Beach, 32960-3559. (772) 562-3909 x258 or http://archiecarr.fws.gov

Feature and images provided by Nancy Nelson-Duac, Editor FTF based on a site visit with family in 2007. Updated Copyright 2011. 
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