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England: London, Cycling the Royal Thames Valley.  The River Thames is England’s royal thoroughfare – for centuries, kings and queens used it as a link between their palaces and castles. Along its meandering course, much of the nation’s history has been written.
Now there is a ‘green’ way to explore the picturesque Thames Valley – from London to Oxford – and get some exercise into the bargain. The Thames Valley Cycle Route offers anyone who can beg, borrow or rent a bicycle a chance to see Hampton Court Palace, Windsor Castle and other great landmarks along England’s famous river from a different angle and at a leisurely pace. In the most part, it is also a lot of fun.
I say in the most part because, a few miles south of Oxford, I encountered a party of volunteers constructing a bridge forming part of the cycle path. As I clambered over steel girders and piles of gravel with my bicycle, one joked: “Mind our wet cement or you’ll be stuck here longer than you expected!”
By the time you read this, though, their work will be finished and the 97-mile (155km) route – partly beside the river but mainly along traffic-free tracks and country lanes in the surrounding countryside – is a pleasant amble suitable even for inexperienced cyclists. Allow three days to savour the whole trip, or those who are less intrepid can choose to spend a day or so sampling part of the route.
The thrill of cycling out early on a sunny morning with nothing but a map, camera and a few light refreshments gave me a real sense of freedom. Climbing the hill overlooking Runnymede – well known for its John F. Kennedy memorial and as the place where King John signed Magna Carta in 1215 – into the green expanse of Windsor Great Park, eased away my cares. At this time of day the park, once a royal hunting ground, was almost deserted, save a few rabbits and polo horses being exercised.
Windsor Castle, 900-year-old home of Queen Elizabeth II, is a massive landmark visible for miles around. It was downhill along tree-shaded tracks to Windsor town, then across the river and on through Eton, home of the college which educates prime ministers and royalty. I crossed the water again a few miles upriver, on a graceful pedestrian bridge, into the village of Bray, noted for its fine restaurants. There is nothing like cycling to build an appetite!
Distinctive ‘millennium mileposts’ at intervals show the mileages to locations on the route, and elsewhere little blue bicycle signs point the way. Even so, the detailed map published by Sustrans, the charity that pioneered the route as part of a rapidly expanding national cycle path network, is an essential aid.
The route starts south-west of central London, at Putney Bridge, then crosses the well-kept oasis of Richmond Park with its wild deer and ponds, and follows a wide River Thames for miles, past Hampton Court Palace, where I imagined King Henry VIII arriving by royal barge.
Generally, hills are few and far between, though if you are averse to pedalling uphill, miss out the section between Reading and Stoke Row, where the route crosses the Chiltern Hills, the highest point between Oxford and London.  Sustrans’ route map includes a useful gradient profile – and there are railway stations at intervals where flagging cyclists can, if necessary, pop themselves and their bike on to a train. This is ideal for the return trip, too. (Bikes are carried free on Thames Trains services, which operate frequently between London, Windsor and Oxford, except during morning and evening peak hours, when they are not allowed.)
Among the delights of this trek are picture-postcard villages of thatched-roof houses, colourful gardens and, of course, pubs. I stopped for lunch at “The Plough” in the village of Long Wittenham, near Didcot. With its inglenook fireplace, oak beams, Pedigree ale and traditional ‘Aunt Sally’ game, this was definitely worth cycling a long way for. I imagined the Thames was some way distant at this point – but the landlord pointed out the boats moored beyond some trees. The river, narrower now, shimmered at the end of his long pub garden.
The final stretch is alongside the tree-fringed river. A flight of birds – common tern – danced and dived above the water. It was somewhere on the river that Oxford don and storyteller Lewis Carroll rowed a young girl, Alice Liddell and her sisters, and “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” was born. I was in good company on arrival in the city of Oxford. The ‘city of dreaming spires’ teems with bicycles during term time. Two wheels proved an ideal way to explore its many attractions.
There is a good variety of accommodations en route. It ranges from hotels to hostels (there are Youth Hostels at Windsor, Streatley-on-Thames and Oxford) and 'bed and breakfasts' in houses and pubs from £ 25 p.p. per night.
More information on cycling - and other outdoor activities - is included on VisitBritain's website at www.visitbritain.com/outdoor
Making your holiday happen.
VisitBritain offers the Great British Heritage Pass providing American visitors with unlimited entry to around 600 stately homes, castles and properties in England, Scotland and Wales. A four-day pass costs $54; seven-day $75; 15-day $99; and 30-day $133. They can be purchased at VisitBritain Direct through VisitBritain. www.visitbritaindirect.com
VisitBritain
Americans interested in traveling to Britain on vacation should sign up for VisitBritain's monthly newsletter 'Britain Your Way' for the best deals and discounts to destinations throughout Britain. www.visitbritain.com
Oyster Cards are the new money-saving answer for travelers using London's buses and subway. The smart card guarantees that travelers will never pay more than the equivalent day TravelCard price. They may be purchased at VisitBritain Direct through VisitBritain. www.visitbritaindirect.com
National Express – Britain’s national coach and bus operator – is offering ‘funfares’ between London and more than 30 cities starting from just £5 each way with no booking fees. www.nationalexpress.com
2009 Copy Credit. This feature was provided to familytravelfiles.com by Bob Barton at VisitBritain (formerly the British Tourist Authority). He and his family reside in the United Kingdom.
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