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Quebec: Quebec City, Winter Family Vacations - Carnaval de Québec and Urban Snow Adventures.  Quebec City is as an awesome urban destination, ideal for families who love winter and fun in and around snow. It is made even more perfect when the annual winter carnival is in progress. No one is concerned about snow or ice slowing down activities. Larger than life ice sculptures line the park walk just outside the walls of the old city. The festival mascot, Bon Homme, oversees the festivities - pure fun!
Here's the scoop. Anytime after mid-day festival goers, those not on the ski slopes, will begin to hear the bleating of horns. The sound may originate from the middle of any group on the street. The odd thing is that for sure there will be an answer and usually more than one. Tourists buy these horns and eagerly begin moose calling on their own. Normal looking business folk appear in public places wearing red elf hats and everyone seems to be is happy.
If you are planning a family vacation to a snow place and your vacation includes teens, this is a great place to start. With or without the Carnaval de Québec, Quebec City offers families who love winter some terrific activities. In the snow area surrounding Quebec City there are plenty of typical winter activities. You name it and I bet it can be done in Quebec but just in case I have a few things to add to the list.
Get a first class sugar buzz in the moonlight. A common Canadian outing that combines fun, food and lively music entails going to a "sugar shack". We went to Cabane a Sucre L'En-Tailleur not far from the city. It is nestled within a thick forest that must be quite dramatic on a full moonlight night. The evening excursion gave us a chance ride in a horse drawn wagon threw the moonlight woods. Before taking our turn in the wagon we poured hot syrup onto a board of fresh fallen snow. Quickly one of the attendants placed small sticks within each spill. We all stood as if in a group trance and watched the dark luscious syrup crystallize in to lollipop shapes. No need to explain what happened next. Kids squealed as the delightful maple-pops were handed out. New lines were immediately formed by young and old. I am sure everyone had the same idea, this was to good to be true. Bonus points: In conjunction with the maple-pop ritual is a horse drawn wagon ride through the woods.
Don't speak French, so what? Bundled together under thick woolen blankets we sang songs we did not know and laughed with new acquaintances. We had one thing in common, we all loved maple syrup pops. The evening was windless and I am sure our laughter carried for miles. The ride is only part of the ritual connected with visiting a sugar shack. At Cabane a Sucre L'En-Talleur guest are served family style. The food is typical French Canadian and hearty. The atmosphere is jovial and friendly. During the evening guests join in the impromptu sing along. The folksongs are spunky tunes with choruses for all to repeat. Don't speak French, so what no one seems to be bothered. Music transcends language barriers and everyone's seems to improve with each chorus. Bonus points: In addition to singing each table of guests take their turn with the musicians. Each of us was handed a wooden spoon and given a rhythm lesson. Coordinating knee, hand and ear was harder for some than others. The trick is not to laugh when the music starts. Nevertheless the activity is great for all ages.
Sign up to meet the dogs. Now it is true that dog sleds run hourly across the Plains of Abraham in the city. It is a lovely sort of picture perfect thing to do after lunch in the Old City. It is also a short carefree encounter with a sled and not the dogs. At Mont Saint-Anne Resort there is a more holistic approach to dog sledding available to tourists. For families it is the perfect activity well perfect if you like dogs, like them a lot and do not mind dog slobber, dog breath in your face or dogs barking from the moment that they see their owner.
We tried our luck - we met the dogs. This is really nice for younger children who wish to experience fur in the face. The dogs were not yet in harnesses so we followed instructions about how to harness. That is where the chaos began. It seems not all dogs like all other dogs. It also seems that all of them want to lead. Our guide was truly patient has helped us untangle the reins from the harness more than once. I heard hold this and stand still more than once but never really knew who was supposed to do it. Need to know: Riding a dog sled takes little effort and is a lot of fun. Driving a dog sled takes a lot of energy, concentration and coordination. The explanations given just after we signed on the dotted line meant very little to any of us. Once on the trail there was no time to play back the advice. The dogs ran at full speed for about 45 minutes. Most of this time barking to the other dogs as if to say move over we're coming through!
Remember "Sergeant Preston of the Yukon"? I am sure it was not as fast as it seemed but the cold air made me squint and my ear muffs deleted most of the human voices. The seat on the sleigh is comfortable for a sled. Our guides provided blankets and cushions to make the ride more pleasant. As we sped across the snow and along the winding trail at the forest's edge I recalled clearly "Sergeant Preston of the Yukon" and the escapades of King his trusty friend. Clearly these dogs knew nothing of how the huskies on TV behave.
 In reality, once underway, the dogs keep running as if in a race with each other along a well-marked trail. During our run our guides kept us on track and those of us wishing to drive were given a chance on the return route. when the dogs were less energetic which is helpful because the teams run for the lead dog. So if the lead dog thinks he can do his own thing, like leave the trail, he will try. Need to know: The good news is that falling out a dog sled is no big deal. The drop is short and the snow is soft. Dog sledding is a blast. It is fun for all ages. but driving the sled should be left to the guides.
If the shoe fits? Snow shoeing is definitely an awesome activity to enjoy with children. And at Mont Saint-Anne it is possible to organize an adventure beginning with selecting the proper fitting snow shoes. One size does not fit all so getting the right size or style takes some doing. Once you have your new shoes then walking in what you have just rented is the next challenge. If the size shape and weight correspond with the user's body shape and weight then all systems will go but in my opinion there is nothing easy about walking while wearing snowshoes. It is definitely something to begin at birth because there is a learning curve and the younger the body the easier the movement over the snow. Once rented we agreed to make our way to the trailhead at our own pace. Need to know: I learned one should never walk on ice with snowshoes. I also learned it is impossible to be graceful for more than a minute. You've got to combine rhythm with momentum, swing your arms, and lean with the path.
At the trailhead it became apparent that we were not going to travel along the open snow draped golf course instead we were heading up into the woods, up where the deer hide; up where there were no footprints; the rest is history. Except for our energetic Norse looking guide, no one remained standing for long. With each collapse he would repeat commands intended to right the body. Sometimes it worked sometimes it was the sound of laughter that replied to the commands. Need to know: Only do this with your kids if they have energy to burn. This activity will make everyone hungry and will also make everyone sleep within minutes of nightfall.
Winter shopping at its best. I will not add a sub list of where to shop because the city is easy to navigate and there are always plenty of bargains. Just imagine great winter garb and friendly shopkeepers. Begin Quarter Petit Champlain and you will be walking on one of the oldest commercial shopping streets in North America. The shops intertwine with cafes and artistic enclaves. Browsing the streets below the wall and the Chateau Frontenac takes a plan because the streets are narrow and lined with quaint shops and plenty of distractions. Discovery: My favorite shop is Atelier la Pomme at 47 Sous-Le-Fort. They have terrific leather products, unusual jackets, parkas and lovely hats, mittens and gloves.
Family friendly eating places. In Quebec City on almost every corner there are friendly spots to enjoy a delicious meal with kids at the table. Two of our favorites are Café Du Monde (57 Rue Dalhouise, www.lecafedumonde.com) is known for brunch; Le Cochon Dingue, with four locations throughout the city, serves great coffee, cocoa and desserts ( www.cochondingue.com).
Family Vacation Planning Details
Tourisme Jacques-Cartier, for a variety of marvelous wintertime activity ideas. www.jacques-cartier.comLes Secrets Nordiques, for a wonderful dog-sledding experience. (418) 827-2227 or www.lessecretsnordiques.comCabane a Sucre L'En-Tailler, for a sweet Sugar Shack experience. (418) 828-1269 or www.entailleur.com Make it happen. For the big picture go to www.BonjourQuebec.com
Original feature written based on a visit in 2001. Comments by Nancy Nelson-Duac; images provided by www.bonjourquebec.com. Updated by FTF staff 2011.
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