Maryland: Reality Camping                      By Andrew Der

I used to love camping – the more primitive and remote, the better, but now that I am older with children, it is becoming more and more of a challenge.  The time when the children crave the experience the most, is also when I am finding that arranging the experience has become increasingly cumbersome.  Traveling with your kids in general is challenging enough – but camping? 

Don’t get me wrong – I love sharing such experiences with my kids, but as many parents know, the primary terrors of embarking on a journey of this caliber include, but are not limited to:

• an excruciatingly long drive where an inexplicable dimensional warp causes time to pass more slowly under the asymmetric gravitational pull of hyper-undulating and compulsively arguing bodies;

• the inability to address the high-maintenance bathroom requirements of an easily soiled family with the standard array of bodily orifices;

• and the inevitable absence of necessary house wares and sundry items thought to have been packed but are discovered to be absent only upon arrival and not available within driving distance of your campsite.

Realizing that I wanted my kids to have the same enriching experiences I had when I was a youth (now I know why my parents sent me camping under the care of others), I was determined to find a way to make the experience appealing to me.  First, I reminded myself that what the kids consider camping is not the same as what I might consider camping.  Put another way, one need not venture far into the wilderness or deprive oneself of civilized comforts to enjoy the woods, nature, a tent and a campfire. 

With this in mind, I remembered the most popular park from my childhood was only one hour away from Washington, DC or Baltimore, ideal for a low maintenance weekend getaway.  When I used to camp there, the area was still a wilderness.  With the rapid expansion of suburban sprawl, the park is now in the proximity of an interstate but has only changed for the better.  Known today as the Cunningham Falls State Park and Catoctin Mountain Park, it has all the creature comforts while still feeling like days away from the big city.  Although this park is in Maryland, I am confident my type of experience is available to most denizens of major metropolitan areas around the country. 

The parks are located next to the small town of Thurmont in the vicinity of Camp David, the famous yet secretive presidential hideaway in Frederick County.  I was pleasantly surprised to find that not only is this retreat thriving but also has evolved into a flagship park of the Maryland State Park system.  Its popularity requires reservations for peak summer weekends, especially for the more secluded sites, so utilize their user-friendly web-based reservation system – it is slick as duck poop.  The primary camping area, called the Houck Area, is the most popular because it is sited near the manmade lake providing a self-contained fishing, boating and swimming haven with a sand beach.  While the summer heat is noticeable, the evenings are still mountain-like enough.

While it might be counter intuitive, seriously consider camping in the park’s other more secluded camping region, the Manor Area, during summer weekends.  While the lake is too far to walk, you will definitely savor the peace and quiet compared to the more boisterous but good-natured lake crowd.  Both camping areas have hot water bathhouses and well water faucets.  Some have electrical hook-up for RVs.  The National Park Service camping areas are a tad more rustic (not necessarily a bad thing) but reservations aren’t as conveniently automated.  The plusses are rustic cabins, more mountainous hiking trails and fewer crowds. 

Once we arrived and set up camp, our children will felt like the Davie Crocketts. During the process, true to my earlier caveat, I realized I had forgotten to pack, of all things, the children’s’ sleeping bags.  They were about 30 years old and left over from my wife’s childhood (she never throws anything out) so I thought this would be a good time to upgrade from the mysteriously musty flannel to the new synthetics.  Instead of mumbling epithets under my breath, I was able to drive to a Wal-Mart 20 minutes north on the interstate and purchased two new ones for $10 each.  

While I was there I collected a few other odds and ends on a list my wife gave me before I pulled out of the campsite. The list included a propane cylinder for the lantern, a bottle of wine for after the kids go to sleep and a carryout dinner – all completed in exactly one hour.  I am beginning to like camping all over again. For next day’s meals, I was able to purchase milk and fresh grilling meat for a camp fire dinner at the local grocery store instead of bringing it in a cooler and risking spoilage.  In fact, most food items are best purchased locally which makes packing and planning that much easier. 

Even more significant was that during a heavy rain, eating at a nearby restaurant was far more appealing than trying to grill over a campfire.  When we returned to the tent, a leak (mandatory occurrence for any camping trip) soaked some of the sleeping bags.  Since spontaneity is the hallmark of a family outdoor adventure, we were able to sleep at a motel near the aforementioned Wal-Mart community.  This turned out to be just as much fun for the kids (and therefore us) as the camping.  This also has now created another family ritual called a “hotel party”. 

A hotel party begins by enjoying a regional family attraction within a couple of hours’ drive from home after checking in to the local chain hotel or motel.  We conclude the day’s activities by taking some Jerry’s Subs back to the room and watching the most vacuous of cable programming (we do not subscribe to cable at home).  Afterward, my children play their favorite indoor game, “beat up Da Da”, which involves screaming, giggling and pummeling me mercilessly on one bed while their mother miraculously drifts off into a long awaited coma-like sleep on the other.  Next morning, the program calls for a complimentary continental breakfast in the room with cable in the background again and includes an hour of pool time if one is available.  Don’t forget to ask for an extended check out time because of your child-related delays in getting ready.  Almost all hotels, if they are not booked, will grant you and hour or more.  After checkout, we enjoy another family attraction and head home – but I digress. 

When the time comes to explore and enjoy the park’s natural amenities, the opportunities are as convenient as they are numerous.  On weekends, do not plan on driving to the lake outside of early morning or late afternoon hours.  The additional regional residents use the water as their beach escape on hot days which jam the parking and cause back ups.  Instead, utilize the extremely less crowded Manor Area opportunities for more nature-oriented activities such as hiking the trails and exploring the streams.  Some of their pools are hot tub-deep for soaking but without the “hot” which is more satiating in steamy August.   

In the Manor Area, begin by walking to the new Manor Visitor Center next to the recycled tire play area.  Take a few minutes to enjoy the modern rest facilities, aquarium and the historic artifact display.  Orient yourself by referencing the topographic model of the area and take some brochures, especially a trail map of the whole park system which provides all your points of interest including the Houck Area and lake as well as the National Park Service Catoctin Mountain Park area. 

From the Visitor Center, walk to the end of the driveway to a loop parking area where picnic pavilions are available by reservation for large gatherings.  At the loop end begins the very comfortable and less known Catoctin Furnace trail paralleling Little Hunting Creek – the place to dunk yourself in the refreshing rocky pools before moving on.  Next continue on the secluded trail and abruptly over the surreal Route 15 highway over pass then back in the forest again on the other side.  Proceeding further will take you back in time 100 years and more, as you are required to cross an ornate antique wrought iron pedestrian bridge over a scenic portion of the creek.  A few more minutes of walking will mark your arrival at the ruins of the 200 year old Catoctin Iron Furnace and the remnants of the caretakers residence.  Partially overgrown with vegetation and accessible by boardwalk, the scene is oddly reminiscent of Central American ruins.  The nearby Furnace, with a picnic area, was once a booming industrial community for Frederick County. 

For those more athletically inclined or behind in their exercise regimen, the nearby Catoctin Trail offers miles of scenic hiking.  The 27-mile trail actually connects Gambrills State Park to the south as well as the Catoctin Park and lake to the north.  After you return to your campsite for a break, enjoy something completely unexpected and walk across Route 15 from the Manor Area entrance to the seemingly out of place Catoctin Wildlife Preserve and Zoo with over 350 exotic animals.  I was fortunate enough to visit when two newborn lions were available for public viewing.  Finish off the day by eating at the all-the-home-cooking-you-can-eat Mountain Gate Family Restaurant in Thurmont about a mile north of the Zoo.  Weather willing, the next day enjoy your meals cooked over your campfire. 

When the crowds have dissipated is the best time to enjoy the lake in the Houck Area.  From the Manor Area, access is available via Route 77, which will take you past Catoctin Mountain Park Visitor’s Center on the right.  Stop by the historical and natural history displays and learn more about its facilities should you decide to experience this National Park later.  Afterward, drive on to the Cunningham Falls State Park lake entrance road on your left.  A 44-acre man-made lake will welcome you and have you thinking you are at a wooded beach.  Nestled in pristine forestland, the lake provides a plethora of recreational opportunities including a created sand beach with lifeguards, complete facilities and guided park activities for the kids.  The water was surprisingly warm for a mountain water source and the kids played in it so long their feet were webbed.  Staying in the more frequented Houck Area campground will put you in walking distance of the lake but at the cost of sharing the more crowded facilities with numerous others in the summer season.  In addition to lake boating and fishing, put-and-take fly-fishing is available on both State park areas in Big and Little Hunting Creeks. 

The lake area of this State/federal park complex is the best for hikers.  Numerous trails permeate throughout with varying levels of difficulty.  The most popular hike is the one from the lake along Big Hunting Creek to Cunningham Falls and is practically a mandatory ritual for visitors.  When arriving at the falls, you will notice they are not like water falls in the traditional sense but rather more like a rocky and steep unvegetated slope braided by flowing water and dotted with other hikers.  The result is actually a very delightful rock climb for novices and children with good athletic shoes.  Upon reaching the top (easily anxious moms are not allowed to watch the kids do this) you will want to erect a flag out of accomplishment.  My six-year-old daughter inexplicably decided this was the day to challenge her shyness and performance anxiety as well as astound me by climbing all the way up with just the help of her eight-year-old protective brother. 

Longer hikes can be found on the paths that lead across Route 77 into National Park terrain.  Along the way your efforts will be rewarded by a multitude of unique rock formations and scenic overlooks.  Try the trails to Wolf Rock, Chimney Rock and the Thurmont Vista in the northeast portion of Catoctin Mountain Park as well as the Falls and Hog Rock Nature Trails and the Owens Creek area trails to the northwest.  Forgetting you are near civilization is easy in the comforting forest.  The only time you will be reminded is when you find yourself not dreading a brutal drive back home while you learn to view camping in the same light as spending the afternoon at a neighborhood park - ignore the primitive camping purists along with their peer pressure and get real. 

RESOURCES

Cunningham Falls State Park
14039 Catoctin Hollow Road, Thurmont, MD 21788
1(301) 271-2549, www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/cunninghamfalls.html
Website also has maps of entire park areas and main campground.
Reservations: 1-888-432-CAMP (2267) or http://reservations.dnr.state.md.us/

Catoctin Mountain Park
6602 Foxville Road, Thurmont MD 21788
1(301) 663-9388, www.nps.gov/cato

Catoctin Wildlife Preserve and Zoo
13019 Catoctin Furnace Road, Thurmont, MD 21788
1(301) 271-3180, www.cwpzoo.com

INSIDER TIPS

Bathrooms: The facilities in the visitor center and playground area are less crowded, better equipped and maintained and cleaner than the ones in the campgrounds.  While these are acceptable, the only reason to tolerate them is the hot showers and shorter walk from your tent.  The bathrooms in the visitor center are the best with hot water, soap dispenser and A/C but only available when the center is open.  My only significant complaint about the whole experience is that the bathhouse hot water heater ran out of propane gas Friday evening (according to what a park worker told me) after most campers arrived and was not refilled until Saturday evening.  Apparently, the park management defines customer service in peak season as consisting of simply waiting until heating fuel runs out to determine when it is time to refill as opposed to making the horrendous effort of periodically checking the fuel level.  I wonder if park vehicles are refueled with the same strategy?  Considering the fees are meant to include these amenities and are not inexpensive (but otherwise well worth it), this was inexcusable. 

Trash bags: Bring plenty of these because the Maryland State Parks system believes in not providing them, as well as trash receptacles, for your convenience.  Their party line is that it encourages visitors to remove trash on there own resulting in less litter when in fact it is a means to pinch trash removal pennies and results in actually more litter from irritated patrons who might otherwise put their trash in provided receptacles.  Apparently, the park staff agrees because they considerately provide a makeshift receptacle in the bathhouse and a dumpster in the camping area.  In addition, trash bags are great ways to store and pack clothing, bedding and anything else needing protection from dirt and water. 

Tents: In the spirit of low maintenance camping, purchase a “pop-up” tent that sets up in minutes.  Such tents are not as common in larger sizes (4 persons and up) so I had to look around.  I found an excellent 4 person dome tent, the easiest to erect, at Target Stores, of all places, for about $80. 

Ground covers and sheets: Purchase a plastic sheet as a ground cover to put under the tent or even erect with line as an inexpensive shelter.  The tip here is to buy a much larger sheet than the tent bottom at the paint department of a hardware store (known here as a drop cloth) where it is a fraction of the cost.  Drape the excess area of the sheet over the tent for extra rain protection in storms even if it came with a fly (a fabric rain cover) which are usually undersized.  Remove the sheet for lighter rains when hot so the tent air will circulate and remain cool.

Rain:  No matter how much your tent is advertised and described as water repellent or rain proof, buy some seam sealer in a can or bottle so it can be brushed on.  This liquid compound is brushed liberally over the bottom seals of the tent not completely under the fly while the tent is up before you leave on your trip.  The tent must dry for several hours before packing away.  Failure to do this on our tent is what caused our leakage.  If staying for several days, invest in an easily erected picnic canopy, a tent-like structure without a floor or walls, over the picnic table provided at each campsite.  In case of rain, such a shelter will provide a dry haven with plenty of room.  Yes, one can expend the time and effort to fabricate their own by tying the ends of a plastic sheet or tarp to branches or poles.  While this costs less, it violates the spirit of low maintenance camping.  Most outdoors or sporting good departments have canopies.

Sleeping: In the summer, sleeping bags are not necessary unless they are used for cushioning or the kids simply have to have them.  Unless you are at high altitudes, they are way too hot when zipped up.  Instead, bring some plain sheets and blankets.  Buy a sheet of foam rubber large enough to cover the floor of the tent interior.  This makes for a very comfortable living space and makes costlier camping mattresses unnecessary except for the most massive campers.  It sets up immediately without inflation and I purchased two queen size foam pads in the Target bedding department for a pittance. 

Eating: Bringing groceries is unnecessary and risks spoilage.  Buy whatever you need nearby and include grilling meat.  Each campsite has a functional cast iron fireplace. Instead of charcoal, the one time you may want the high maintenance approach is when building your fire from collected deadwood – for some reason it seems to make food taste better.  A supermarket, restaurants and several fast food eateries are located on Highway 15 a mile and a half north of the Manor Area.  I recommend the aforementioned Mountain Gate Family Restaurant, 133 Frederick Rd., 301 271 4373.
 

GETTING THERE

The park is easily located on map and yellow pages directories in the common internet portals and is located 20 minutes north of the City of Frederick next to Maryland Route 15, an hour north of Washington, DC and an hour west of Baltimore.